4 November 2019
Bidding a fond farewell to the Omau Settlers Lodge and resisting the urge to kidnap Alfred the Great – see my previous post! – we nip along to the nearby beach to admire the striking rock formations.
Then it’s up to the nearby cliffs for a look at the Cape Foulwind lighthouse. Although there’s been a lighthouse here since 1876, the current building dates from 50 years later when the keepers were laid off and operations automated. But there’s little romance in an automated, concrete-towered lighthouse, so we quickly move on to something of more interest: the fur seal colony at Tauranga Bay, just a couple of miles up the coast.
We’ve already seen many more fur seals on this trip than I’d expected. It’s reckoned that before the ancestors of the Maori arrived in the thirteenth century, the islands that now make up New Zealand were home to around 3 million fur seals. The new arrivals were dedicated seal hunters and by the time of Captain Cook’s arrival in the late 18th century there were an estimated 1.5m-1.8m seals left, about a 40% decline.
That loss was nothing compared to the effect of European sealing, which peaked between about 1790-1820. It’s estimated that this new wave of sealing activity reduced the population to about 10,000 animals, or about 0.4 % of the pre-human population.
Today, the Department of Conservation estimates the country’s fur seal population is about 200,000 animals, about 5% – 10% of pre-human numbers. By any standards this is a remarkable recovery, and we’re pleased to enjoy the consequence of this at Tauranga Bay, where there are plenty of good-looking fur seals strutting their stuff.
But we haven’t done with coastal scenery as we head off to visit Pancake Rocks. These are the centrepiece of Paparoa National Park, which is famed for its variety of stunning landscapes.
The Pancake Rocks are layered limestone formations dating back 30 million years, when layers of lime rich mud were deposited on the seabed and then overlain with weaker sheets of soft mud and clay. The seabed was slowly tilted and raised to form coastal cliffs, and wind and water have etched out the soft layers to produce the unmistakable “stack of pancakes” effect.
The result is a bizarre, fascinating landscape which is quite unlike anything I’ve ever seen before. Even better there are plenty of birds passing the time of day, sitting on the rocks or whizzing swiftly between them. Mrs P manages to capture an image of a Caspian Tern heading off, probably in search of lunch.
New Zealand has 15,000 kilometres of coastline, supposedly the ninth longest of any country. Today we’ve been treated to some of its best bits, and as we head towards the famous Fiordlands on the south-west of South Island it should get even better … and even wetter.
It’s a rainforest down there and the clue, as they say, is in the word “rain.” Good job we’ve packed our rain gear.